Seville Sans Sailors

SEVILLE SANS SAILORS
Seems very strange to be drinking beer in the late sunshine so close to the largest Gothic cathedral in Europe whilst Christchurch cathedral in New Zealand lies in ruins. Wonder what condition the city will be in when I go there in September for the world rugby cup-it will certainly need all the spending it can get from now on.

Seville is the warmest place I have been in since I left Egypt in November. Lighter clothes are appearing and northern European tourists are ever more in evidence. Whilst no longer a maritime city like Bristol, which in the 16th century was an inland port, the home of John Cabot the "discoverer" of Canada and thriving on the import of slaves, furs and sherry, at the same time, Seville grew in culture and architectural beauty on the rivers of South American Gold and was home to Christopher Columbus and the baroque painter Murillo. The old waterside area is a tourist mecca and close to the 200 year old and still operational bull ring there are many fun bars and music dives.


The river tour boats look as though they can carry hundreds of tourists but they are desperate to drum up trade at this early season. The river flows out to the sea through Cadiz from whence the Armada and equally doomed Spanish contribution to the fleet that ran in to Nelson on his last appearance, at Trafalgar.
The massive cathedral overtops all with the high bell tower-La Giralda-standing like others in Andalusia on the shoulders of the original Moorish mosque builders. Another courtyard with flowing water for pre-devotional ablutions and shaded by trees burdened with large oranges. In answer to my concern as to why they are not picked I am reliably informed that a long suffering Spanish guide told his English tour party that they were too bitter for Spaniards and were left for English tourists to take home and turn into marmalade.


Yet it blends in with the younger streetscape of stylish art nouveau apartments

and is not discomforted by the passing of horse drawn carriages (the smell reminds me of following them as a boy to scrape up their droppings to feed neighbours roses) and the sleek modern trams which like those in Melbourne and Manchester have their own stops with raised platforms(excepting here and in Helsinki, despite the snow, they come when their electronic notice boards say they will).


I like substantial refined cities and am pleased to have visited the Andalusian trio in an order that finished here. Like Barcelona it feels right and reinforces my love of my maritime home at the other end of the earth. Whilst I expect to pay more for beer and many other things when I get back I am hoping that a stable regular autumn will deliver similar mild and sustaining sunshine. It is still dark and well below zero in Helsinki-one has to be of a particularly stoical mind set to last out its winter-but looking in the paper I see that my trip to Berlin could see me geared up again for minus temperatures. Still one can't expect much warmth from a city that inspired-"Brandenburg"(written by a fellow Selwyn man) "funeral in Berlin" and "The spy who came in from the cold" I Can only hope that "cabaret" will be back in vogue when I get there. "Wilkom and Bien Venue, Welcome!!" You will not believe that Judy Dench sang and danced in this on stage before Minelli got a look in. I was taken as a farewell treat before leaving for Australia in 68(thanks Howard) and she was a far more realistic Sally Bowles.
But, back to here and now reality as, on a nearby table, delightful northern English ladies of a certain age, in Marks and Spencer summer couture of unflattering horizontal stripes, discuss curtains and soft furnishings whilst their husbands, just younger than me, silently drink their beer and dream. Speaking of which one of my favourite painters from my home town, Lowry, has been honoured this week by the owner of Sam's Chop house, in Deansgate I think, who has installed a life sized bronze statue at his former place at the bar. There are still new things to be dreamed about and seen.
Perhaps my newfound Vaughantown friend, David next time he goes home, will do me the honour of going there to toast him on my behalf in Guinness. Perhaps they do Bury black pudding (simmered not fried) as well as chops??
BARRY